How to Make a T-Shirt Quilt: Step-by-Step

Back every t-shirt with fusible interfacing before you cut it. T-shirt jersey stretches in all directions and will distort the moment you try to piece it, and lightweight knit interfacing is what turns it into a stable fabric you can treat like quilting cotton. Skipping this is the single most common reason a t-shirt quilt comes out wavy.

For a throw-sized quilt of about 60 by 72 inches you need roughly 20 to 30 shirts, depending on block size. Sashing strips between the blocks let you use shirts with different-sized designs in the same quilt.

1. Wash the shirts, without fabric softener.
2. Cut the panels larger than your final block, then apply fusible interfacing to the back.
3. Trim to size once the interfacing is fused and cool.
4. Lay out the blocks and photograph the arrangement before you sew.
5. Add sashing between the blocks, which evens out mismatched designs.
6. Layer, quilt and bind as with any quilt.

Mixed block sizes work perfectly well and often look better, as long as sashing absorbs the difference. Plan the layout on the floor before cutting anything.

Planning Your Project

I made my first t-shirt quilt in 2006 using a pile of race shirts my husband refused to throw away. That quilt is still on our couch, soft and faded in all the right places. Since then, I’ve made more than forty t-shirt quilts for family, friends, and charity auctions. They’re one of my favorite projects because every single one tells a story.

For batting choice and quilting distance, see our quilt batting guide.

New to this topic? Start with our guide on How to Quilt for Beginners: A Complete Guide before diving in.

If you’ve got a drawer full of concert tees, old college shirts, or your kid’s sports jerseys, this guide will walk you through turning them into a quilt you’ll actually use. The process is simpler than most people expect, especially if you’ve done any basic quilting before. And if you haven’t, check out my beginner’s quilting guide first to get comfortable with the fundamentals.

What You Need to Make a T-Shirt Quilt

Before you start cutting into those shirts, gather everything on this list. Running out of interfacing halfway through is not fun (ask me how I know).

Supply List

• 12 to 20 t-shirts, depending on the quilt size you want
• Lightweight fusible interfacing (I recommend Pellon SF101). Buy enough to back every shirt panel.
• Sashing fabric: 1.5 to 2.5 yards of a coordinating cotton
• Quilt backing fabric: enough to cover the finished top plus 4 inches on each side
• Cotton quilt batting (I prefer Warm & Natural)
• Rotary cutter and self-healing cutting mat
• Quilting ruler (a 12.5″ square ruler is ideal for this project)
• Fabric scissors
• Straight pins or quilting clips
• Thread: all-purpose polyester for piecing, cotton or poly for quilting
• Iron and ironing board
• Sewing machine in good working order
• Binding fabric: about 0.5 yard
• Seam ripper (you’ll need it at least once, trust me)

If you’re shopping for a machine and aren’t sure where to start, I put together a list of the best sewing machines for beginners that covers several models with enough throat space for quilting.

How Many T-Shirts Do You Need?

This depends on two things: how big you want the finished quilt and how large you cut each shirt block. Most people cut 12″ or 14″ finished blocks (that’s 12.5″ or 14.5″ before seaming). Here’s a quick reference table.

These numbers assume you’re adding 2″ to 3″ sashing strips between blocks, which I strongly recommend. Sashing gives the quilt a polished look and makes the layout much more forgiving. If you’re short a few shirts, you can fill gaps with coordinating fabric blocks or use both the front and back designs from the same shirt.

Step 1: Preparing Your T-Shirts

This is the step most people rush through, and it’s the one that matters most. Properly prepped shirts make the rest of the project go smoothly.

Washing

Wash and dry all your shirts first. Don’t skip this. You want any shrinkage to happen now, not after the quilt is finished. Use a normal warm wash cycle and tumble dry on medium.

Cutting the Panels

1. Lay each shirt flat on your cutting mat. Smooth out any wrinkles with your hands.
2. Decide which part of the design you want to feature. Not every logo is centered, so position your ruler to capture the best part of the image.
3. Cut through both layers (front and back) to separate the shirt into flat pieces. Cut along the side seams and across the shoulders.
4. Using your quilting ruler and rotary cutter, trim each panel to your chosen block size. Remember to add a half-inch seam allowance on all sides. For a 12″ finished block, cut 12.5″ squares.
5. If a design is too large for your standard block size, that’s okay. You can make that block a rectangle or even a double-wide. Just plan your layout to accommodate it.

Applying Fusible Interfacing

This is the step that separates a quilt that holds up from one that stretches out of shape within a year. T-shirt fabric is knit, which means it stretches. Quilting requires stable, woven-like fabric. Fusible interfacing solves this problem.

1. Cut a piece of lightweight fusible interfacing to match each shirt block.
2. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the shirt panel, fusible (bumpy or shiny) side down against the fabric.
3. Set your iron to the cotton setting with no steam. Press firmly for 10 to 15 seconds per section, lifting and moving the iron rather than sliding it.
4. Let each piece cool completely before handling. The bond needs time to set.
5. Test the edge of the interfacing to make sure it’s fully adhered. If it peels up, press again with a bit more pressure.

I’ve tried skipping the interfacing on a couple of early quilts. Both of them stretched and warped badly after washing. Don’t skip it.

Step 2: Planning Your Layout

Before you sew a single seam, arrange all your blocks on a large flat surface. A design wall works great, but a clean floor or a bed will do just fine.

1. Lay out all your shirt blocks in rows and columns according to your planned quilt size.
2. Step back and look at the overall arrangement. Distribute colors and design sizes evenly. You don’t want all the dark shirts on one side and all the light ones on the other.
3. Consider the visual weight of each block. A shirt with a small logo in the center looks different from one with an all-over print. Alternate heavy and light designs.
4. Take a photo with your phone once you’re happy with the arrangement. You will forget the layout. I promise.
5. Number each block with a sticky note (row and column position) so you can reassemble the layout at your sewing table.

If some of your blocks are different sizes, now is the time to figure out how they’ll fit together. You can trim larger blocks down or add extra sashing to smaller ones. A little math here saves a lot of frustration later.

Step 3: Cutting and Sewing the Sashing

Sashing strips are the fabric borders between each shirt block. They frame each design and give the quilt visual breathing room. I usually use 2.5″ wide strips (which finish at 2″), but 3.5″ strips (finishing at 3″) work well if you want a bolder frame.

Cutting the Sashing

• Vertical sashing strips: Cut strips the same height as your blocks (12.5″ for 12″ finished blocks) by your chosen sashing width.
• Horizontal sashing rows: These will span the full width of each assembled row. Measure carefully after your rows are pieced before cutting these.
• Cornerstones (optional): Small squares where the sashing strips intersect. These add a nice design detail. Cut them the same width as your sashing strips (e.g., 2.5″ x 2.5″).

Sewing Sashing Between Blocks

1. Start with Row 1. Take your first block and pin a vertical sashing strip to its right edge, right sides together.
2. Sew with a quarter-inch seam allowance. A consistent seam allowance is critical for everything lining up. If you’re not sure about different stitch types, a standard straight stitch at 2.5mm length is what you want here.
3. Press the seam toward the sashing strip. This reduces bulk and helps the blocks lie flat.
4. Add the next block to the other side of the sashing strip. Continue until the entire row is assembled.
5. Repeat for each row.

Step 4: Assembling the Quilt Top

Now you’ll join all the rows together with horizontal sashing strips.

1. Measure the width of your completed Row 1. All rows should be the same width, but measure anyway. If they’re slightly off, ease the longer one to fit (or trim carefully).
2. Cut a horizontal sashing strip to that width.
3. Pin the sashing strip to the bottom edge of Row 1, right sides together. Sew with a quarter-inch seam.
4. Pin Row 2 to the other side of that sashing strip and sew.
5. Continue adding sashing strips and rows until the entire quilt top is assembled.
6. Press all seams. Give the whole quilt top a good pressing from the front, checking that everything lies flat and the blocks are square.

At this point, I always stand back and admire the top for a minute. It’s incredibly satisfying to see all those old shirts come together into something new.

Step 5: Adding the Batting and Backing

Your quilt sandwich has three layers: the pieced top, the batting in the middle, and the backing fabric on the bottom.

1. Cut your backing fabric 4 inches larger than the quilt top on all sides. For a large quilt, you’ll likely need to piece the backing from two or more widths of fabric. A simple center seam works fine.
2. Cut your batting to the same size as the backing.
3. Lay the backing fabric wrong side up on a large, clean, flat surface. Smooth it out and tape the edges down with painter’s tape to keep it taut (not stretched, just smooth).
4. Center the batting on top of the backing and smooth it out.
5. Place the quilt top right side up on the batting, centering it so the extra backing and batting extend evenly on all sides.
6. Pin or baste the three layers together. I use curved quilting safety pins placed about every 4 to 6 inches across the entire quilt. Some quilters prefer spray basting, which also works well.

Understanding quilting fabric types will help you pick the right backing material. I like a soft cotton flannel for t-shirt quilt backings because it adds warmth and has a cozy texture.

Step 6: Quilting Your T-Shirt Quilt

Quilting is the stitching that holds all three layers together. You have several options here, and the right one depends on your skill level, equipment, and patience.

Option 1: Stitch in the Ditch

Sew directly along the seam lines between blocks and sashing. This is the simplest method and it practically disappears into the quilt. Use a walking foot on your machine to keep the layers from shifting. This is what I recommend for your first t-shirt quilt.

Option 2: Straight-Line Quilting

Sew parallel lines across the quilt, either vertically, horizontally, or diagonally. Space them 1 to 2 inches apart. This creates a clean, modern look and is still fairly straightforward with a walking foot.

Option 3: Free-Motion Quilting

Drop your feed dogs and use a free-motion foot to create meandering, stippling, or other decorative patterns. This gives the quilt more texture but requires practice. If you haven’t done free-motion quilting before, practice on a sample sandwich first.

Option 4: Tie the Quilt

If machine quilting a large quilt feels overwhelming, tying is a perfectly valid alternative. Use yarn or perle cotton to place ties at each block intersection and at the center of each block. It’s fast, it’s easy, and it gives the quilt a casual, homey feel.

Option 5: Send It to a Longarm Quilter

Professional longarm quilting services typically charge between $0.02 and $0.05 per square inch. For a throw-size quilt, that’s roughly $60 to $150. It’s worth considering if you want an intricate design or don’t have the equipment.

Step 7: Binding the Quilt

Binding is the fabric strip that wraps around the raw edges to finish your quilt. I have a detailed quilt binding tutorial that covers this process in depth, but here’s the short version.

1. Trim the batting and backing even with the quilt top on all four sides.
2. Cut 2.5″ wide strips of binding fabric on the straight grain. You’ll need enough strips to go around the entire perimeter of the quilt, plus about 12 extra inches for joining and corners.
3. Join the strips end to end with diagonal seams. Press the seams open, then press the entire long strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
4. Starting in the middle of one side (not at a corner), align the raw edges of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt top. Pin in place.
5. Sew with a quarter-inch seam allowance. Stop a quarter inch from each corner, backstitch, pivot, fold the binding to create a mitered corner, and continue sewing along the next side.
6. When you reach your starting point, join the binding ends neatly.
7. Fold the binding to the back of the quilt and hand-stitch it down with a blind hem stitch or ladder stitch. This is the tedious part, but it makes a huge difference in the finished quality.

I usually spend an evening or two hand-stitching the binding while watching TV. It’s relaxing once you get into a rhythm.

Tips From 20 Years of Making T-Shirt Quilts

• Don’t use every shirt you own. Be selective. A quilt with 15 great designs looks better than one with 30 mediocre ones.
• Prewash your sashing and backing fabric to prevent uneven shrinkage after the quilt is done.
• Use a walking foot for piecing knit blocks. Even with interfacing, a walking foot helps prevent shifting and stretching.
• Keep your seam allowance consistent. A scant quarter inch is standard. Even small variations add up across 20+ blocks.
• Label your quilt. Sew or write a label for the back with the date, the occasion, and who made it. Twenty years from now, someone will want to know.
• Wash the finished quilt on gentle cycle and tumble dry low. The interfacing and knit fabric will last longer with gentle care.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I mix different sizes of t-shirt blocks in one quilt?

Yes, but it takes more planning. You’ll need to work out the math so rows and columns still align. One approach is to treat the layout like a puzzle: combine a large rectangle with two smaller squares in the same row, for example. Graph paper or a quilt design app helps a lot with this.

What type of interfacing works best for t-shirt quilts?

Lightweight woven fusible interfacing is the standard choice. Pellon SF101 (Shape-Flex) is what I use on almost every t-shirt quilt. It stabilizes the knit fabric without making it stiff or bulky. Avoid heavyweight interfacing or iron-on patches, which make the shirts too rigid to quilt through comfortably.

How long does it take to make a t-shirt quilt?

For a throw-size quilt with about 12 shirts, I typically spend 2 to 3 hours cutting and applying interfacing, 1 to 2 hours on layout and sashing, 2 to 3 hours assembling and quilting, and another 1 to 2 hours on binding. That’s roughly 6 to 10 hours spread over a weekend or a few evenings. Your first one will likely take longer, and that’s perfectly normal.

Can I use shirts with different fabric types, like performance athletic shirts?

You can, but proceed with caution. Performance fabrics (polyester, moisture-wicking materials) don’t always bond well with fusible interfacing. Test a scrap piece first. If the interfacing won’t stick, try sewing the shirt panel to a piece of lightweight cotton muslin instead. That gives you the same stability without relying on the fusible bond.

Do I need to prewash the fusible interfacing?

No. Prewashing fusible interfacing will wash away the adhesive, making it useless. Use it straight from the bolt or package. Just make sure you prewash your t-shirts, sashing fabric, and backing fabric before starting the project.

Wrapping Up

A t-shirt quilt is one of those rare projects that’s both practical and deeply personal. Every block carries a memory, whether it’s a 5K you barely survived, a band you saw in college, or your daughter’s first soccer season. The sewing itself is straightforward, mostly straight seams and pressing. The hard part is choosing which shirts make the cut.

If you’re ready to start but still building your skills, my quilting for beginners guide covers the fundamentals you’ll need. And once you’ve finished your first t-shirt quilt, I’d love to hear how it turned out.

Happy quilting!

Donna Richardson has been sewing and quilting for over 20 years. She writes for sewingwithease.com, where she shares tutorials, honest gear reviews, and the occasional sewing disaster story.